In the last post, we touched upon some of the physical properties of Japanese Chef knives. This post will touch more on the aesthetic side of knives. I have found during my short time of selling knives that a lot of people prioritize how the knife looks almost as much, if not more, than how the knife cuts. To be fair, I think this is a valid point of focus. Most people haven’t spent more than $50 on an individual knife, so if you’re spending the money to buy a GOOD knife, shouldn’t it look good too? My wife and I have different opinions on this idea: I feel like if you’re going to buy a designer bag or clothes, I want there to be a very obvious indication that the item is a [fill in the luxury brand]. Whether there is a big logo, or a very recognizable pattern, I want to know instantly when looking at it, that it is a premium item. My wife isn’t very flashy, though.
When it comes to knives, I think the finish is the main aesthetic that people will focus on initially. In the world of hand-forged knives, we often talk about fit and finish vs. wabisabi. Every finish speaks to a different personality. Here is a breakdown of the most common ones you’ll encounter as you fall down this rabbit hole, along with some subjective pros and cons for each:
Migaki (Polished)
It’s a clean, buffed look that is shiny and consistent without being a full mirror. This is the finish that Ashi Cutlery uses and I believe it’s why most people have trouble grabbing this as their first Japanese knife - there’s no argument about how well they cut (it’s truly top tier), but it looks too “plain” for most people.
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Pros: It’s a straightforward, "no-frills" look. It offers minimal drag when cutting, offering a smoother experience.
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Cons: It’s a bit of a "scratch magnet." If you aren't careful, every little scuff from cleaning or sharpening will show up. Food also tends to stick a bit more to the smooth surface.
Kurouchi (Black Iron)
This is the most rustic look you can get. It’s essentially the "forge scale" (oxide) left on the blade after it’s been heated. It’s the epitome of wabisabi—it’s imperfect, dark, and full of character. There are also levels of how dark the kurouchi can get. The first knife I bought in Japan was a Konosuke YS-m which is a very dark black kurouchi.
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Pros: If the Kurouchi isn’t sealed, the finish wears and changes as you use it, telling the story of your cooking journey - similar to a patina. It provides a bit of extra grip for a pinch grip and acts as a natural moisture barrier for carbon steel. Some people also say that the kurouchi layer helps with food stiction since it isn’t smooth.
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Cons: It may flake and fade over time as you wash and sharpen the blade. The textured surface requires you to be extra diligent about drying.
Tsuchime (Hammered)
Pronounced “tsoo-chee-meh”, this finish is created by literal hammer strikes on the face of the blade. Some blacksmiths even make their own custom hammers to create specific, funky patterns. My first experience with hammered metal is actually not a knife, but a wok. When I was searching for my first wok, I had decided on a hand hammered round bottom wok.
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Pros: Those little indentations create air pockets that act like a "suction breaker," helping food release from the blade more easily. It also adds a nice bit of traction for your fingers. If you get a knife that is hand hammered vs machine hammered, your knife will likely be a 1 of 1.
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Cons: Much like the Kurouchi, you have to make sure you wipe those dimples dry. If you leave moisture sitting in a hammer mark, you might find a surprise rust spot later.
Nashiji (Pear-Skin)
Nashiji is like a hybrid version of the tsuchime and kurouchi finish. It’s a byproduct of the forging process where the black scale is moved, but the rough, pear-like texture remains.
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Pros: It’s the perfect middle ground—rustic without being too "in-your-face." It offers a subtle boost to food release and grip.
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Cons: Again, surface area is the enemy of moisture. You’ll need to be mindful of your drying routine to prevent oxidation in the texture.
Mirror Polished
This is the “end game” as far as knife polishing goes. It requires an incredible amount of labor, moving through increasingly fine grits until the steel is literally a mirror. Basically, you have to progressively move up in grit, “scratching” the blade with finer abrasives before moving onto buffing with polishing compounds on a felt wheel or with leather strops.
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Pros: A finer finish minimizes drag, which is why a mirror-polished Yanagiba glides through delicate proteins. The finish is also quite stunning.
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Cons: It is incredibly high maintenance - avoiding scratches can take the focus away from using the knife. That same slickness in the pros section can also be a bit of a headache; the smoother the blade, the more likely food is to stick rather than offering clean food release.
Damascus (Suminagashi)
This is the one everyone asks about. While the core steel does the actual cutting, the Damascus cladding (layered steel) is there for durability and pure aesthetic "wow factor." It looks like ripples in water or "Suminagashi" ink art. Modern day damascus differs a bit from OG damascus in that, most modern blade makers started calling blades that had the same aesthetics as the OG "Damascus" blades, referencing the appearance of the blade rather than the metallurgy.
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Pros: It is jaw-droppingly beautiful. Because the patterns are created by the blacksmith’s hammer strikes, no two knives are ever exactly the same.
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Cons: The extra labor from the steel maker and blacksmith means these usually come at a premium price point. There are also certain knives that use etching or printing onto cheap stainless or carbon steel, rather than being forged through multiple layers.
I will be linking to a 2ft long adjustable sink bridge for whetstones. I have a 12 inch sharpening holder but I wish that I could sharpen it over the sink sometimes. For convenience purposes, being able to sharpen over a source of running water is ideal.